The Lezgi people live in the Republic of Azerbaijan, in the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains. They are a proud people with a once vibrant weaving tradition which today has all but vanished. Dugul Looms exists to preserve Lezgi weaving by reviving its lost beauty and inspiring a new generation to continue its legacy.

Weaving has existed throughout the Caucasuses long before recorded history. The writings of ancient travelers to the Caucasus region and centuries-old antique carpets testify to the historic roots of this tradition.

Amongst Caucasian textiles is a unique flat-woven structure largely attributed to the Lezgi people, the sumakh. Fine examples of antique Lezgi sumakhs are proudly displayed in museums and privat e collections around the world today. Below are a few exquisite examples. Notice the intricate detail, harmonious colors and complex designs of these masterpieces.

Weaving is traditionally a woman’s craft, and in centuries past, every woman participated. Mothers would spend endless hours weaving with their daughters, teaching them just as they had been taught by their mothers. Each bride wove a set of sumakhs for her dowry, a chance for her to showcase her skill and creativity.

Unfortunately, several forces of modernization have driven Lezgi weaving to near extinction. The introduction of cheap, machine-made carpets provided women with an effortless option for covering their floors and walls. These were eventually accepted in a bride’s dowry, thus eliminating a significant drive to continue their weaving tradition. 

Mass production of sumakhs under the Soviet regime further advanced the decline of Lezgi weaving. While sumakhs had long been commercially produced for export, their production had still largely been a private home craft, allowing for the weaver to take pride in her work. Large Soviet factories quickly eliminated this vital component to the craft’s preservation. Additionally, traditional intricate designs were replaced with simple degenerated designs to accelerate production. The priority was quantity, not quality. Several generations of weavers passed through this bleak system, leaving Lezgi weaving in a desperate state.

Results of the decline of Lezgi weaving are shown below. Long gone are the harmonious colors and intricate designs of centuries past.

The present condition of Lezgi weaving is dire. Out of the 82 villages in the Qusar region, only 2 still have a significant weaving population. While the total population of Qusar region is 82,000 people, there may only be 100 women still weaving today. Their daughters have no interest to learn. Little value is given to this craft so they turn their attention elsewhere.

Not only do a few weavers remain, but the traditional means of producing sumakh materials are even further lost. Only a few elderly women still know how to spin yarn by hand, and no one knows the secrets of dyeing wool through purely natural means as it once was done.

The current situation is grim, unquestionably leading toward permanent extinction of Lezgi weaving. If the current generation passes away without having passed on the remaining traditions to the next generation, the root of their weaving history will be permanently eliminated.

Just as there were many steps in the decline of Lezgi weaving, reviving its traditions will also be a process. Dugul Looms is committed to the task.

We first had to recover designs woven in the region in centuries past. Very few, if any, antique sumakhs remain in the region because they have all been gathered up and sold to collectors in western markets. To find traditional designs, it was necessary to buy books displaying museum exhibitions and private collections containing antique sumakhs.

While we have taken steps towards locally reviving the natural dye process, the first batch of yarn was bought pre-dyed from outside the region. This decision allowed us to immediately employ local weavers and to determine if the project would be commercially viable before developing the process locally. While we ordered naturally dyed yarn, we received yarn primarily dyed with synthetic dyes. While the dyes are not natural, the colors are beautiful and the yarn is made of high quality, pure wool.

Dugul Looms is committed to insuring the greatest benefit to the local community. It is our aim to find a direct market for our products, creating higher wages for the weaver and a better value for the customer.  Before even establishing a market for our products, the wages of our first weavers were immediately increased 33%. As we are able to establish a market and ensure the financial viability of this project, we are eager to continue to raise the weavers’ wages. Increased wages is a critical step toward encouraging more women to learn the craft and, thus, ensuring the preservation of Lezgi weaving.

Thank you for taking the time to learn about Dugul Looms and for considering purchasing one of our fine sumakhs. Each sumakh is deeply rooted in the Lezgi weaving tradition, and one small step toward insuring that this tradition will last for generations to come.

Thank You, Ryan Smith Dugul Looms Founder